" Jordan has a strange, haunting beauty and a sense of timelessness. Dotted with the ruins of empires once great, it is the last resort of yesterday in the world of tomorrow. I love every inch of it. "
-King Hussein I
-King Hussein I
Smack in between Iraq and the Palestinian Territories, Jordan offers some of the most intriguing sights, hospitable people and fascinating landscape we’ve seen. Two massive surges of Palestinian refugees and a recent surge of over 100,000 Iraqis, brings a very diverse population that has somehow remained the most stable in the region. Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, etc all in the midst of the Israeli/Palestinian situation…we were excited to see what it was all about.
After landing in Amman we headed to the southern point of the nation renowned for its diving – Aqaba. Sitting on our balcony staring across the gulf at Israel’s cities, and Egypt’s desolate Sinai it was a bizarre crossroads to be in. To add to the mystique thousands of people from all over the Middle East were returning from the Hajj pilgrimage through this bustling port town. People watching aside, since we both forgot our water wings we didn’t get in the water but instead turned to the land of Lawrence of Arabia….Wadi Rum.
After landing in Amman we headed to the southern point of the nation renowned for its diving – Aqaba. Sitting on our balcony staring across the gulf at Israel’s cities, and Egypt’s desolate Sinai it was a bizarre crossroads to be in. To add to the mystique thousands of people from all over the Middle East were returning from the Hajj pilgrimage through this bustling port town. People watching aside, since we both forgot our water wings we didn’t get in the water but instead turned to the land of Lawrence of Arabia….Wadi Rum.
Wadi Rum is a landscape filled with red sand poured between massive red monoliths resembling blobs of melted candle wax. Christmas Eve was spent rocking to the lumbering beat of the camels we rode and attempting to make sense of the views in front of us. We continued on with the help of our one-humped friends and stayed the night in a Bedouin camp with two young guys from the desert. A full moon was out that night and we walked through the moonlit desert while one of the boys sang from his tent. A different, but brilliant, way to spend Christmas Eve. Rest assured Santa did drop off a few gifts in the desert that night and we spent the next day hiking around the area and sliding down rock faces on ill advised decisions. Getting older, but not smarter.
As the sun went down Christmas night we made our way to Petra. As a solid member of the 7 wonders of the world (as well as highly recommended by Tina's grandmother), Petra had a big billing to live up to. With no one else there we went through the gates around 6am and started up the Siq. The Siq is a natural, thinly sliced path through the rocks that winds for 1.2 km and adds so much tension to your anticipation. Finally seeing the Treasury (as seen in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom) emerge as you round the final curve couldn’t have been done any better if they tried to create a “tourist entrance” today. Truly jaw dropping. We spent two full days hiking as much of the area as we could in this ancient Nabataen site. As a people that gained their wealth charging taxes on the traders that past through their area, they might very well be some of the worlds most famous “middle men”. After two long days we entered the gates on our final evening to walk the Siq and see the buildings illuminated with 1,500 candles and the stars above. Tons of tourists, very cold, lots of walking but man was it incredible. 
From Petra we pushed on to some of the political and historically intriguing aspects of the country. We based ourselves in the small town of Madaba, filled with ancient mosaics and holy relics near the River Jordan. From here we went to Mount Nebo, where Moses finally saw the Promised Land (coincidently so did Tina) and looked onto Jeruselem, Bethleham, the West Bank and all that it encompasses. Winding down through the hills on the King's Highway and into the East Bank we drove past donkeys, camels and Palestinian camps as we headed for the Jordan River. Washing our faces in the river at the exact site of Jesus’ baptism was a moving, memorable experience. 
Our final stop was the lowest point in the world – the Dead Sea. The sea is 30% salt (ocean water is normally about 4%) and got its name due to the inability of anything to live in its waters. A misty thick cloud of evaporating salt water hovers over the site and adds to the unease as you first enter. Admitedly we spent way too much time laughing and floating around in the water to be taken seriously. It was ridiculous but was unlike anything we’ve done before. As I side note I now know the exact location of every cut on my body. A few tears were shed.
The incredibly varied sites that Jordan packs into such a small country are staggering. Hopping around the country you can really appreciate the difficult position of the nation and be impressed at the stability amidst all the tensions of the populace. We stayed the night in Amman as we prepared for Syria.
From here we set out on the road for Damascus…..
From here we set out on the road for Damascus…..
