Thursday, August 30, 2007

"If god wills it"

Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights. It is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the idea of living.

-Miriam Beard

With an infinite number of excuses for not putting another blog entry up we will simply say “Inshallah”. That meaning will become clearer, later.

In the time since our first entry we have been trying to get firmly set up here. Of all the day to day elements that make up living in a new place we had to buy a vehicle. We finally decided on a KIA Sportage (aka the cheapest 4WD in this market) and have taken it off-roading already – the front of our house is a bumpy desert so we’re counting that as “off roading” for now. I have a strong suspicion that this truck is going to find its way up a Sand dune in the very near future.

Through the effort to buy this vehicle we came to learn a word synonymous with the Middle East, “Inshallah” it means literally “god willing”. But in business it means, “Someday but not today”. Nice. For instance the bank had our wire come in and called me each day telling me to come in to pick it up but to no avail. Each day I spent an hour in the office waiting until I heard these responses on separate days: “I thought you were someone else (he honestly said this.), “the main computers are down in the main office (bull....)”, “there has been a power outage in Ruwi "– the East Indian part of town (now, I have no idea how this effects a money wire from Canada but apparently it does), and finally, “we don’t have enough money right now” (sweet). Eventually the excuses ran out and the money was ours…..Inshallah.

Of course we started our time spent funding our adventures here by dealing with students to the steady ringing of bells. Our “international school” has over 33 countries represented in the middle school – most prominent are North American, Omanis, Nigerians, Koreans, Lebanese, other Gulf countries, and the Danes. The classes are small, the kids are very pleasant and the staff is extremely positive and active. Tina is doing very well in her new position and has started dispensing black market drugs to students and teachers as a “side income”. (Just kidding). In addition, she has mastered the art of photocopying, can file with the best of them and has officially destroyed her first color printer. A natural.

After an evening at the US Ambassadors house drinking on the US tax payer we took off with an Aussie couple and headed 2 hours into the interior. Through the rocky hills we came to a flat palm oasis where the former capital of Nizwa sits. We toured the fort and old market place where Bedouin caravans would bring their goods to trade after their venture through the Arabian sands. The next morning the Bedouin ladies hit the goat market and haggle rather viciously over the use of some of Nizwa's finest on four legs. As our goat quota is full we didn’t stick around to haggle.

Getting out to the East Coast has given us a chance to get out of the city-life, see our first camels, hang out with the goats and soak in the crystal clear water and empty beaches. In an effort to do some recognisance work for all visitors planning on coming (this is my recruiting pitch) we have found 2 beautiful locations less than an hour from our place where you can spend the day in warm surf and empty beaches.

As a final piece to our blog I must describe a truly bizarre part of life as an expat in Oman. This is a staunchly Islamic nation and drinking is illegal….sort of. As an expat you are allowed to purchase a “liquor licence” that allows you to spend 10% of your monthly wage per month on alcohol. So we went down to an unmarked building in the Indian part of town and got these passport books as ID’s that they fill in each time we get alcohol. There are three main shops that people know of – they have no windows and have names like “African Eastern” “Hamid Import and Trading Co.”, and make no claims of alcohol. Inside is reasonably priced fun. It is illegal for anyone from a nation where alcohol is prohibited. Another reason I love the Great White North.

Thanks for taking the time to read or comment, we love sitting around our dial-up computer and reading messages from home. We will write sooner this time and will get more pictures up…….Inshallah.

Monday, August 13, 2007

Arriving in Arabia

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -- Mark Twain

Our first installment in the Middle East.....

After a 27 – hour, multiple flight day, spent sitting in border line-ups, running through airports (we’re getting old and slow), nearly missing two flights, spending a night attempting to figure out how to best strangle the worst plane snorer of all time, we finally arrived in Muscat at nearly 11pm local time. On the final flight we realized that we had missed out on the latest fashion trend (high school flashback)– I wasn’t wearing a long white robe with a hat and Tina was not wearing her best black robe and head covering. Who knew?

At the gate two young gents in local white robes (‘disdasha’) greeted us and treated us to Arabian coffee as they took care of customs. Our Director, principal and staff member greeted us and took us to our new home – Muscat, Oman.

Oman is a country of just under 3 million people with 500,000 of that being expats from the Indian sub-continent. Up until 1970 there was 2 primary schools, 1 hospital, 7 km of road (only to be used by the Sultan), extreme poverty, and a divided people. Now there are thousands of schools, many hospitals, paved roads all around the capital city, women in all levels of government, fishing as their largest industry (not oil) and signs of modern industry everywhere. In all this growth they have been careful to keep their heritage. It appears that 90% of the people still wear the traditional clothing, attend the mosque, and adhere to traditional practises – all while driving cars and text messaging on cell phones.Very cool.



We awoke in our new ground-level home and couldn’t be happier. It’s an Arabian designed home with huge (12 ft) ceilings, and multiple rooms all spinning off of a giant middle room (perhaps a Camel stable?). I quite enjoy playing “Marco Polo” around the house, although Tina’s rolling eyes would indicate that I may be the only one.


We are mere blocks off the beach so we took an early morning stroll to the water. While waving to the Pakistani workers we walked through the palm trees, stepping on dates and drinking in the thick, humid air that was already pushing 40 degrees at 8 AM. We dipped our feet in the worlds most sought after water straining to see Iran in the distance and watching the fishermen ply their trade beside us. The country has been immensely impressive from a cultural perspective and we are looking forward to starting work and taking trips to the interior regions in the coming months.

As our house gets hooked up we will try to send updates as much as possible.