Monday, September 24, 2007

Day to Day Details… by Tina

You will never change your life until you change something you do daily.

– Mike Murdock

In an effort to be informative albeit maybe not quite as interesting or eloquent as our previous Blog entries, I’ve decided to give a bit of a run down on a few of the things we encounter in daily life in Muscat.

1) The School:
The campus of the school where we work is actually quite impressive. It contains probably the most greenery in one place that we’ve seen here. Although the searing heat has limited my touring of the 1 KM squared campus, from what I’ve seen it is very nice. The fields have grass that feels like turf and the cost to maintain the grounds is astronomical. This is because although labour is extremely cheap in Oman, the grounds must be watered with ‘drinking water’ quality H20 because the fields will be being used by children.


The main entrance is through the doors in the round part of the building (commonly known as the Rotunda). My office is found on the second floor and looks out into the rotunda space and is quite substantial in size as two people used to be in it. Joel’s office, on the other hand, was one of the last office’s to be assigned. My belief is mainly because they were unsure whether to condemn the area due to air-con leakages/ mouldy concrete or because it is actually just the back area of the PE storage room and they weren’t sure where else to stick the new PE guy. Either way he is yet to be hooked with a telephone, no one can find him because you actually have to leave the building to enter his office and he often finds some of the Indian workers from the cleaning staff (fondly referred to by Joel as his new friends) taking ‘siestas’ in his office on their breaks.

2) Grocery Shopping;

One of the first warnings we received regarding this essential part of life was to avoid going between 7PM – 10 PM. Advise we both just assumed was ridiculous because we figured we could overcome any obstacle Oman could throw us. In Oman, it seems that family shopping time is 7-10 PM after they have been to Mosque for prayers following sunset. The result is a ‘high collision zone’ in the parking lot, long lines at the ‘vegetable weigh stations’ and cashiers and basically utter chaos involving too many shopping carts in one place at one time. People are all very friendly though, and to make it though all you need is to breathe deeply and not be in a rush. Needless to say we have adjusted our shopping times and have started following advice we receive.


We shop at two main Grocery chains here. The first is called ‘Lulu’s Hypermarket’ which turns into a giant Las Vegas- style lighted building come sunset. Our ‘on the way’ home grocery store is called Safeer Hypermarket, although not quite as clean or containing as good of a selection, it is well …on the way home. We haven’t had trouble finding any of the things we love from home; they have almost all we need from Doritos to Tostitos Salsa. The only thing sadly missing is really nice fruit and veggies… but go figure we are in the desert. (Oh yeah no perogies either)


3) The Gym:
Most people here become members of a 5-star hotel such as The Intercontinental, The Hyatt or the Radisson for their Gym needs. However, at ~1000$ per person per year, I guess it can be said that we cheaped out and joined a local health club called the Future Gym that is below where some of our co-workers live. It has a Mixed Gym area and a Women’s area. We both find it quite interesting to be in our respective gyms and see the local Omani’s come into the change rooms in their full traditional wear and come out in lycra and tank tops to get their sweat on, especially the women!

4) The Shwarmas!

For those of you who are unfamiliar with these wonderful culinary creations, we suggest you get down to the Middle Eastern/ Lebanese area in your parts and pick yourself up some of these delectable treats. Shwarmas consists of a pita slathered with garlic mayo-y stuff and filled with shavings of meat (either chicken or lamb) that have been roasting on a rotating spit for who knows how long, the occasional French Fry and just enough lettuce to make us believe this is actually better for us than a Big Mac.


There are many of these cafes that serve Swarmas in our neighbourhood but after a good two weeks of careful exploration we have decided on a neighbourhood favourite. It is the Istanbul Reef Cafe where one large (we can only assume) Turkish man sits at a desk outside (a la Godfather style) and barks orders at the men that run from cars and tables taking orders from customers and the large sweaty man that stands beside the roasting meat and creates the swarmas single handedly. They are fast and cheap ~ 70 cents (how can we afford not to.) And since this place is also on our way home, we have often looked at each other on the drive from school and said one word… ‘shwarma’s… and dinner that night is served.



5) Hummus- Sweet - Houmous (However you want to spell it)
From those of you who know me… you may know of my secret love for hummus. It is not beyond me to admit that I have been known on occasion to make a quick stopover from work or school and purchase a vat of hummus and some pita bread and chow the entire vat in one sitting. The only reason this didn’t occur on a daily basis was because of in my opinion the astronomical cost of deli made hummus!!
Well, being one of the best Middle Eastern creations since well oil (?), this stuff comes cheap here! In fact Joel and I purchase the stuff in cans! It has become a great after school treat that I can finally enjoy at 25 cents a can!

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

It takes all kinds

“In the sky, there is no distinction of east or west; people create distinction out of their own minds and then believe them to be true”
-Siddharta Gautama (founder of Buddhism, 563-483BC)



This week we attempted to finally get our tent set up and drive up to the mountains. A really cool older couple upstairs invited us along on a “star-gazing” trip with a group of their friends. Now, Tina and I try not to judge as best as possible but “star gazing” has never been on our “wild weekend” agenda. For the purpose of blog research we heartily agreed. The couple that invited us warned us with a few stories so we were pumped for the ridiculousness of it all.

In a place like Oman you have three distinct sets of people. The local Omani, the Indian and Pakistani workers and the European/Western expats that work in the Oil/Telecom/Education industries. The star-gazing group was made up of middle aged families and elderly gentlemen from the Oil industry. Armed with “The sword of Jedi” (a laser beam pointer that can bloody well touch the stars) and “The 20 inch Obsession” (these are their names not mine.) we headed out. We went up the highest mountain range in Oman and settled at a barren plain along the edge of the ridge.

The location was superb, the stars actually were amazing and the solitude of it all was remarkable. Just when Tina and I thought we were far outclassed by the Astrological wit of our company the main speaker started to wig out over the bugs and began waving the Jedi Sword around, slapping himself, spraying wildly and crashing into things, while another man was patiently explaining that “yes the horizon did change in the southern hemisphere” over and over again to a gentleman that seemed more concerned with the star that the wise men followed to find Jesus. What’s that saying about being "safe as long as you’re faster than the slowest in the herd"? Thanks to this guy we were safe.

We left the next morning and decided to go up and over the range and through the villages below. A steep, windy, dirt path lead us through the various angles of the mountains and through tiny Oasis villages as we splashed through the streams and marvelled at the will of the inhabitants. The total seclusion of these small villages is truly remarkable. They formed generations ago at the site of a water source from the mountains above. At the edges of these steep slot canyons the villagers persevere and continue the only life they’ve ever known. So we held out Coca Cola, showed them images from the Tabloid magazines, downloaded some reality TV shows to show them what they are missing in the West. I don’t think we won over any converts.

I’m sure our invitation to the next star gazing trip has already been lost in the mail so we are really excited about getting out a lot in the next few weeks to camp in the desert and explore more of the uninhabited coastline. The country truly is beautiful (my visitors pitch again) so if you are thinking of coming you really couldn’t be disappointed.

We will write more often as we have just gotten the internet hooked up at home. Our Skype is ready to go!

Talk to you soon. Hope all is well where you are.