Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Deck the Falls

"God is really only another artist. He invented the girafe, the elephant, and the cat. He has no real style. He just keeps on trying other things."
-Pablo Picasso

Leaving the beauty of Cape Town and the varying attractions of Namibia we headed towards Botswana, the Caprivi Strip, Victoria Falls and finally Kruger National Park.

Ringing out our clothes and tent from the rains of Namibia we entered a country so dry that its currency – Pula – means rain in the local language. Botswana is an economic success story in the region. An influx of investment associated with diamonds has propelled the country from a dire situation to a bright future. Years of civilian governments, strong health care and relatively little corruption are points of pride. But the country is being ravaged by HIV infection where the life expectancy hovers around 33 years old. With the diamonds set to run out in 35 years coupled with such a high infection rate many difficult decisions need to be made in the coming years.


We spent most of our time in the rural wonderland of the Okavango Delta. An area of dense vegetation and shallow waters hosting hundreds of crocodiles and Hippos. We spent a pleasant day “poling” on Mokoros (dugout canoe) through the waters amidst crocodiles as one of our guides “fished” for baby crocs with his hands. After an ill-advised piggy back fight in “Hippo-free” water we continued on through the Caprivi Strip towards Victoria Falls.



The Caprivi Strip is a narrow strip of land that extends from northern Namibia to the border with Zambia. It’s a part of Namibia that has constantly been fought over as it acts as a corridor connecting west and east Africa in this region. We had the pleasure of staying near a small village and seeing real life unfold. As well, we had a brief game drive that while the guide told us about “gestation times” and “life expectancy” our seedy Afrikaan friend explained how to grill the respective animals and what they tasted like. Classy. He topped our safari off by explaining at special events his family puts a giraffe on a spit and it feeds 250 people. We are looking forward to the invite.




On Christmas day we crossed a river from Namibia into Zambia. It was us, rich illegal diamond dealers, trucks sitting in line for a month to avoid Zimbabwe, and people with tanks of gas going back to Zimbabwe to sell. Maybe not the Hallmark edition Christmas morning but there we were. Finally, in the early afternoon we arrived in Livingstone and reached our destination – Victoria Falls. The water pounded down and mist covered the surrounding air. It was well worth the travel. We spent the afternoon walking around the falls as tons of Zambians did the same wishing all a “Merry Christmas”. That evening we enjoyed Christmas dinner on the Zambezi River.


The next morning we woke early and prepared for our “micro light” flights. On the recommendation of my brother Matt we decided to take a flight in this two seat riding lawnmower with wings. It barely exceeds 50 MPH and stutters in the air but it was marvellous. Dipping and diving around the clouds to get a good view was as memorable a way to see the falls as I could imagine. After swearing like a trucker, shaking profusely and peeing myself I am so glad we both did this.




After landing we caught a cab to the real airport and boarded our flight to Johannesburg. Far less exciting, but mush more comfortable, we arrived in Jo’burg picked up our car and drove to Kruger National Park. Again the rain followed us but this time so did the animals. Groups of Rhino walking around our car, Elephants within a trunks reach and leopards sunning on the rocks above was a great way to cap off our trip.

As we boarded our flight for home we were excited to get back to Muscat and more so because waiting for us there were good friends Matt and Cora from London and Matt and Alisa as well. We were really looking forward to seeing these familiar faces again.