The Promised Land

"Peace cannot be kept by force. It can only be achieved by understanding."

~Albert Einstein

(Jerusalem Old City from the Mount of Olives)

For several years one of Joel's travelling goals was to set foot in "The Holy Land". Tina was in it for the Hummous. Regardless of your religious persuasions it certainly is the center of our world's politics and history. This intriguing combination of religion, politics and history promised an interesting trip.

We started the journey by travelling through Jordan and attempting to cross the border near the Dead Sea over the King Hussein/ Allenby Bridge. I write "attempting" as this is a very difficult process with tight security and the very real possibility of being sent back. Given our time in the region we have collected some stamps that are undesirable in the Jewish State of Israel (as is also tru in the reverse).

The process was long and surprisingly chaotic with plenty of lines and checks, and lines and checks until finally we got to the border gate. At this gate we waited a long time and got to know some of the others in the line. One story sticks out:

A guy about our age was travelling from Jordan to Ramallah with his elderly parents to his engagement party. His wife to be is Palestinian and many of her family would not be permitted to travel to Jordan for the wedding later that week, thus they decided to hold the engagement in the West Bank. Therefore his parents must make the trip today so they could be engaged in the traditional manner. He told us the last time he tried to get through here he was forced to wait 11.5 hours until they let him through. His parents were of moderate health and were not doing very well as the wait progressed.

His father explained that he is Palestinian but worked as a labourer in Kuwait when the war of 1967 happened. He lost everything and was unable to return. He was granted assylum into Canada. He now lives in Jordan but said Palestine is still his home.

Finally, when they got their turn ahead of us they were told "no". No explaination was provided but if they did cross they would stamp his parents passorts (not done previously) and they would be unable to return. Just like that the engagement event couldn't happen.

At this time we also got sent to the waiting room and denied immediate entry. As we waited an hour or two a few phone calls were made and he was finally allowed to cross with his parents. He was very gracious but told us quietly that considering his parents being there and having to tell her family that he was "humiliated" by this ordeal. An interesting look into how politics effects the everyday lives of people in the region.

Soon we as well were granted entry and off we went on the road to Jerusalem.

(Picture: Jeruselam- Wailing Wall during Shabat/Temple Mount )

(Picture: The Western Wall aka The Wailing Wall)

(Picture: Dome of the Rock on Temple Mount)

(Picture: View from wall of the Old City)

Walking the streets of Jerusalem's old city was something we'd always dreamed of doing and it did not disappoint. With the spirituality of three of the most popular montheastic religions, their holiest sites, and the climate of occupation the streets are absolutely alive.

Arriving at sunset on Friday (Shabbat) we headed straight for the holiest of Jewish sites - The Wailing or Western Wall. Having no prior exposure to this religion Joel was wide eyed at the orthodox clothing and system of Torah recital at the wall. The area was completely packed with worshipers praying, singing, dancing and reading from the Torah. What an introduction.

On our first full day in this magical town we arrived early at Temple Mount. This site is the third holiest site in the world in Islam and without question the most photo-genic structure in the city. The Dome of the Rock marks the position that Abraham was meant to slay his son and where Mohammed ascended to heaven alongside Allah. Either way, it's really is jaw dropping.

After leaving Temple Mount we walked the stations of the cross. Many a Sunday growing up the pictures of the stations on his church wall were the last things Joel saw before he dozed off. On this day we had the privilage of walking this route. In a city teeming with pilgrims an Italian group walked with us carried a cross, sang, chanted and added a great deal to the atmosphere. The stations end at The Church of Holy Sepulchure - where Jesus died on the cross. Regardless of your thoughts of religion to walk the steps of this historical event was very impactful.

(Via Deloroso - Stations of the Cross)

(Picture: Church of the Holy Sepulchre)

The next day we set out for the West Bank city of Bethlehem. Going across to the West Bank requires crossing the separation wall. This is a wall that Israel has built around the Palestinian territories. It's shocking. hundreds of km's of concrete wall stretches around the country with look out towers throughout. To pass through is similar to crossing a border with papers presented and bags checked. We had tea with some young guys in the West Bank that day and they had never been allowed beyond the walls. Israel claims it needs the wall for protection, Palestine claims that the wall is designed to break their will and refer to it as the Aparteid Wall. Either way it's bewildering that it's come to this. There is graffitti covering the Palestinian side and we walked along the wall read some of the work.

Walking the small alleys of the town of Jesus' birth and seeing the spot where the event occured was humbling. The town remains small and it's importance to Christians worldwide evident by the pilgrims present on this day.

(Picture: The Wall between Isreal and the West Bank; Graffiti Art on the Wall)

(Picture: Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem)

On our final day in Jerusalem we walked up the Mt. of Olives where Jesus is said to have been arrested and ascended to heaven following his death. We went for the view. Overlooking the walled city you notice the only gate that is filled in - The Golden Gate. All three monotheistic religions beleive that this is where judgement day will start. Helpful hint - if you start seeing bricks breaking away from this gate you better get your life in order quick.

We were genuinely sad as we walked out of the gates for the last time. It was a mesmerizing city and a time in our travels we won't forget.

(Picture: Golden Gate - and Dome of the Rock)

From Jerusalem we headed north to the city of Nazareth. Aside from being the home where Mary and Joseph raised Jesus it was a really nice chance to see life in the north of the country. Nazareth is a small, almost entirely Arab (Muslim and Christian), town that is charmingly understated. We took a walk around the town and got some inside knowledge of daily life.

(Picture: Grotto where Gabriel told Mary she would have Jesus)

(Picture: Basillica of Assumption; Nazereth)

(Picture: Old City in Nazereth)

From there we took off for the coast to stay in Jaffa - southern part of Tel Aviv. This place was entirely different then the rest of the country that we saw. We often just people watched as it was beach life everywhere. Although religion must play a part in the lives of the citizens it seemed to take a back seat to tanning, surfing, and enjoying life. Very different.

(Picture: Tel Aviv Coastline)

(Picture: Using your head at the Beach in Tel Aviv)

Israel/Palestinian Territories promised to be a place of great interest - religion, politics and history and it did not disappoint at all. It was an incredibly facinating, eye opening and unsettling place to see. It's where we've been, why we're here and hopefully not where we're going.

From here we are off to Turkey for kebabs in Istanbul. Getting closer to Vancouver.